The
Mt. Pumori Base camp can be reached Kathmandu –
Lukla flight and trekking via Namche Bazaar, Thangboche
– Pheriche and Lobuche. Mt. Pumori is 7145m. high
and ascent starts at 5,300m; which is beside a beautiful
small lake from here you can get a beautiful sight of
Mt. Everest and Kalapthar at 5545m.
Normal route: This is the easier
route to climb this peak and most of the expedition coteries
climbed this peak so far have used this route. As you
know Pumori is not easy as like the other mountains, there
are difficult technical parts in this route as well. We
suggest you, you should take climbing Sherpa and who will
guide you to reach the Summit.
You need to have at least 3 camps after
base camp to reach the summit. The base camp is just above
Gorek Shep at the altitude of 5300m. After base camp,
you can set up first camp at the altitude of 5,650m. around
the phase of Mt. Pumori.
You should set second camp at the ridge
after the phase at the altitude of 6,000m. The most technical
part for this peak is around camp 1 and 2. You should
set camp 3 at the altitude of 6,480m,around the corner
after the ridge.
You can ascend summit from the camp
3 to the top of Pumori. Most of the climbers use this
route for the expedition to Mt. Pumori in every year.
South - West ridge: Some very
few climbers tried this route, but it is very difficult
routes. This route follows directly from the top of Kalapathar
and goes straight over the ridge nearly by 75 Degree.
As this route has lots of technical difficulties. We suggest
you to use the normal route for the Mt. Pumori and you
& your group will comfortably reach the Top. For the
more information please check Himalayan Journal 1996 or
American Alpine Journal 1997. This book written by Climber
who have been scaled the Mt. Pumori.
Itinerary:
Day 01:
Arrival Kathmandu &
transfer to Hotel (D)
Day 02-03:
Kathmandu official work & preparation
for Expedition (B,L,D)
Day 04:
Flight to Lukla & trek to Phakding
lodge (B,L,D)
Day 05:
Phakding to Namche lodge (B,L,D)
Day 06:
Namche rest for acclimatization lodge
(B,L,D)
Day 07:
Namche – Thyanboche lodge (B,L,D)
Day 08:
Thyangboche – Pheriche lodge
(B,L,D)
Day 09:
Pheriche – Lobuche lodge (B,L,D)
Day 10:
Lobuche – Pumori Base Camp -
Camping (B,L,D)
Day 11-27
Climbing Period for Pumori 7145m. (Camping)
(B,L,D)